Berghofers Pass - Mount Victoria, NSW

As Loch and I embarked on a trek along the historic Berghofer's Pass—a trail echoing with the whispers of time and tales of pioneering spirit. As we stand at the crossroads of history, having traced the footsteps of John William Berghofer through the captivating landscapes of the Blue Mountains, we find ourselves immersed in the essence of an Australian tale—one woven with resilience, pioneering spirit, and the enduring beauty of the land Down Under.

The trail, marked by weathered signposts and age-old markers, unraveled the rich history of Johannes Wilhelm Berghöfer, a visionary whose story began in the village of Münchhausen, Kurhessen, Germany, in 1840. A pivotal moment occurred in 1855 when, at the age of 15, he and his family, led by his mother Anna and four siblings, embarked on a transformative journey as steerage passengers to New South Wales. This marked the beginning of the Berghofer family's pursuit of a new life.

Upon reaching Australian shores, Johannes Wilhelm embraced his new identity as John William, and the family adopted the surname Berghofer without the accent. A strong and resilient youth, he ventured into farm labor and later took charge. In 1867, John William married Katherine Spring, a young woman from the Rhineland, and the couple soon set the wheels of their own destiny in motion. Purchasing land from his father, John William built a homestead for his growing family.

In 1878, John William achieved another milestone by becoming a naturalised Australian citizen, solidifying his commitment to his adopted homeland. Two daughters were born during this period, inspiring John William to contribute further to the community's well-being. A particularly noteworthy endeavour was the construction of a new schoolhouse for his own children and the dozen families of the Kanimbla Valley. Originally a half-time school founded in 1869, the Kanimbla School evolved into a full-time public school. Later known as Duddawarra School by 1882, a testament to the community's growth and commitment to education.

The diligent and hardworking Berghofer continued to prosper. In 1892, he purchased a property in Little Hartley at the foot of Victoria Pass, known as 'The Foot of the Hill.' On this land stood an old semi-derelict coaching inn—the Mount Victoria Inn—built in 1839 by convict labor for William Cummings of Bathurst. Initially licensed as the Crown and Horses Inn, John William renovated and renamed it 'Rosenthal' (Valley of the Roses) in memory of the old Berghofer homestead in Hessia, making it his family home.

In 1900, Berghofer's commitment to community and history reached new heights. He passionately campaigned for the construction of the Macquarie Obelisk at Mount York, a monument that stands tall to this day, symbolizing his enduring dedication to the region and his burgeoning interest in Australian history.

In 1907, when the Shire of Blaxland was proclaimed, encompassing the area from Hartley to Lithgow, Berghofer was elected its first President and continued as an active member of the Shire council until 1916. His dedication to public service mirrored his commitment to community development, leaving an indelible mark on the shaping of the region.

John Berghofer passed away some two months later, aged 87, and was laid to rest in the family plot in Mount Victoria cemetery. His wife Katherine survived him by 18 years, dying in 1945 at the age of 95 and is buried next to her husband. Today, his legacy is visible in the explorers’ obelisk and centenary monument at Mount York, his home ‘Rosedale,’ the store in Selsdon Street, and the rental cottages that he built.

Let us now turn our gaze to the other monument that bears his name

— Berghofer Pass.

As the horse gave way to the motor car in the early 20th Century, the steep road remained a daunting challenge for the nascent vehicles. John Berghofer, with business interests in the town and a proactive approach to problem-solving, couldn't sit idly by. In 1906, he rediscovered a ground survey of an alternate route made 20 years earlier. This route presented a gentler gradient, skirting Victoria Pass, crossing Mount York road, and passing below Mitchell’s famous stone causeway with its massive convict-built abutments, to emerge near the foot of the descent.

Construction commenced in 1907 and continued for five years, with several interruptions due to funding problems. When the new pass opened in February 1912, it became immediately popular, with regular use by traffic until the early 1920s, when grade improvements to Victoria Pass and the advent of more powerful motor cars made it redundant. Although of a gentler grade, it had sharp curves that followed the contours, and the numerous embankments and culverts required constant maintenance. It was officially closed to traffic in 1949. Today, it is signposted and used as a walking track. The original road extended much further than the present one and included what is now known as Berghofer Drive, as well as part of St George Parade and also a small section of Mount York Road.

In the early years of the 20th Century, motor cars faced a formidable challenge ascending the steep Victoria Pass. In some instances, horses were enlisted to assist the struggling vehicles. However, hotels and guest houses east of Mount Victoria, in Blackheath, Katoomba, and Leura, as well as the Hydro Majestic Hotel at Medlow Bath, recognized the potential afforded by the new, faster, and more comfortable means of transport. They began offering one-day motor coach tours to Jenolan Caves, seizing the opportunity to cater to the growing fascination with the renowned caves.

Surveyor Thomas Mitchell's 1842 design and construction of Victoria Pass, utilizing convict labor, had initially accommodated horse, foot, and coach traffic. This route supplanted several early attempts to find a descent of the western escarpment from Mount York, including William Cox’s original 1815 road. Following the arrival of the railway to Mt Victoria in 1868, the fledgling Blue Mountains tourism industry in the upper Mountains started developing itineraries that incorporated scenic views, waterfalls, and lookouts.

With the opening of a direct road to Jenolan Caves in 1882, the Mount Victoria hotels sought to gain a share of the lucrative tourist market by offering daily coach trips to the ‘far-famed Fish River caves’ as Jenolan was then known. The coach trips, however, could be eventful, as remarked by a newspaper of the time.

As I reflect on the footsteps of pioneers and the enduring legacy of John William Berghofer, we can't help but marvel at the impact one man had on shaping not only his family's destiny but also the very landscape we traverse today. Uncovering the tales etched in the stones of Berghofer's Pass.

Berghofers Pass, Mount Victoria is a great dog on-leash and horse friendly walking trail.

As always, your insights are valued. Please leave a comment below if any information requires correction or if there are key factors that should be added to this blog post. Your contributions enrich the narrative, ensuring a more accurate and comprehensive account of this historical journey.

Nadine Travels West.